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Choosing an appropriate material to cover-up or coat the surface of a sound, well-adhered floor can protect against future damage or asbestos particle release in the building.
This article series assists building buyers, owners or occupants in reducing the risk of asbestos exposure from flooring that contains or is suspected to contain asbestos.
Basement Floor Nightmare... Epoxy, Asbestos And Mastic, Oh My!
We provide photographs and descriptive text of asbestos insulation and other asbestos-containing products to permit identification of definite, probable, or possible asbestos materials in buildings.
Page top photo: vinyl asbestos floor tiles in the kitchen of a 1970's home - before covering over with epoxy floor paint.
We also provide an ARTICLE INDEX for this topic, or you can try the page top or bottom SEARCH BOX as a quick way to find information you need.
Why Remove Vinyl Asbestos Tile, Encapsulate Safer And Cheaper
Asbestos is safe and legal to remain in homes or public buildings as long as the asbestos materials are in good condition and the asbestos can not be released into the air.
The most economical renovation procedure for asbestos-floor tiles would be to leave the tiles in place, picking up any very loose scraps for enclosure in plastic bags for disposal (your municipality may permit disposal as construction debris, or you may have to hand it over to an approved waste hauler - double-bagged it should not be an issue), followed by installing a new layer of flooring over the existing material.
We are renovating a small bathroom that has resilient flooring of uncertain age, but from the style we think the floor tiles are from the 70s.
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Remember that the hazard from asbestos-containing floor tiles is not like something that's radioactive - if the flooring is not damaged, if you avoid making a dusty mess by demolition, and more, if it the flooring can be covered and protected from damage, it is not harmful if left in place.
Current best asbestos advice is to avoid the dust and mess of demolition of vinyl asbestos flooring if you can simply cover it with another material.
We are planning to gut and remodel a basement in a house we have been living in for a few years now. The basement previously was used just for storage, but we want usable space there. About 400 Sq ft of the 700 we will be remodeling has existing tile while the rest is just painted cement floor.
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Some of the tile is missing, one section cracked, but covered with foam play mats, which my wife installed initially when the house was purchased.
The house is a 1950s home, but it is not clear when the basement tile was installed. A search online lead me to your site, and they do look like Armstrong tiles possibly, but I wanted to get an opinion from somebody with more expertise.
Me plan was to have the floor removed and to go with an epoxy floor covering, as it is a basement floor, where water is always a possibility and carpet is not something we want to risk.
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If it is not advised, and it would be better suited to go with a different floor covering, we would still need to deal with the areas missing tile, but we have a contractor that can aide in this.
At ASBESTOS FLOOR TILE IDENTIFICATION PHOTOS 1949-1959- (floor tiles) where you'll see your flooring in the early Armstrong (or similar manufacturers) vinyl asbestos or asphalt asbestos 9x9 (and other sizes) flooring.
From the age and appearance of the floor, I would not bother testing it for asbestos, spending instead on proper cleanup and sealing of the surface.
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Even without testing, given the appearance and known age of your floor, it would be prudent to treat such flooring as PACM or Presumed Asbestos Containing Material.
The presence of known asbestos-containing flooring does not mean we should panic nor that we should undertake an expensive and dangerous asbestos removal project.
Generally the safest approach is to leave such flooring alone and to cover it with a coating or with another layer of flooring.
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Keep in mind that even if you removed the floor tiles the remains of the mastic adhesive below would make use of an expoxy floor paint problematic - it may not properly adhere. You'd need to also remove the adhesive (which may also contain asbestos), and then clean the surface to make it bond with the floor paint.
All of that demolition and cleaning, performed properly and safely, would be quite costly. If the rest of your floor is sound and well-adhered, that expense is probably not necessary.
See ASBESTOS FLOORING LEFT IN PLACE where we describe using an expoxy coating on a floor in generally good condition and provided that the remaining floor tiles are well-adhered to the floor below.
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You can buy floor tiles that can fill-in the voids in the existing floor. Select a floor tile of the same thickness and surface texture (not embossed). Armstrong as well as other floor tile manufacturers sell floor tiles in various thicknesses, one of which should match the thickness of the existing tiles.
For a floor whose tiles are well adhered except for small areas of damage such as you show, I would prefer to damp-wipe clean up a few broken tiles, replace missing ones with new tiles of the same thickness, then expoxy-seal or otherwise cover-over (sheet vinyl) the existing floor.
Watch out: If when you remove the rest of the current covering over the floor you find a significant number of loose, poorly-adhered, or broken floor tiles, OR if for other reasons you are compelled to remove the floor (not the recommended option)
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We would have much appreciated hearing any comments, criticize, suggestions, or further questions that you may have taken after you've taken a look at the articles I've cited.
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Watch out: We do not recommend installing ceramic tile over a wood-framed floor before you have checked the flexibility of the floor system, in particular if the floor framing covers a larger span, say a dining room, or an area of heavy usage, say an entry hallway. The worry is that flexing floor framing may cause cracks in the ceramic tile job. Usually the floor can be stiffened sufficiently to avoid cracking either by reinforcing framing from below or by adding a layer of stiff underlayment.
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Watch out: when adding a new layer of floor covering that requires underlayment or leveling compound, the increase in floor height where it abuts adjacent flooring of other rooms can create a trip hazard.
Where some or all old floor tiles have been removed the floor tile adhesive, also called cut-back adhesive or tile mastic will remain. Removing old floor tile cutback adhesive is a horrible job that you should avoid in favor of covering the floor with resilient tile or sheet flooring, carpeting, engineered wood, laminate flooring or a similar product.
However there are at least two situations in which we need to paint over and seal exposed floor tile adhesive even for a floor we intend to cover.
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Black asphalt-based floor tile adhesive, often containing asbestos. This material is not friable unless some fool runs a power sander or scraper over it. Although it can be partly removed using organic solvents, that approach is dangerous and unnecessary unless you are trying to restore a historic and valuable wood floor below.
If the floor is to be covered with a new layer of flooring such as sheet vinyl or vinyl tiles or even carpet padding and carpeting, there is essentially no risk that asbestos particles can move up from the old floor into the occupied space; nothing is abrading the old asbestos-containing floor tiles and they're covered by a membrane of one or more layers of new material
If however you do not want to add more layers of flooring material another option is to clean and seal the original asbestos-containing floor tiles using an epoxy paint designed for use on floors. I've found that that treatment is very durable - having tested our original installation in a building for nearly twenty years.
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Solvent-based tan floor tile mastic: Some tan or brown colored floor tile or resilient flooring adhesives were organic-solvent based and can be dissolved and scraped up but the process is difficult, involves working with potentially dangerous solvents, and is probably a bad idea.
Water-based tan or brown floor tile adhesive: Some tan or brown-colored floor tile or sheet flooring adhesives were water based and can be dissolved and scraped up using simple water.
I [DF] removed water soluble tan floor tile mastic in a small area at an entry door in Wappingers Falls, NY after first trying odorless paint thinner, lacquer thinner and other terrible stuff. To my shock water took the adhesive right up. But this was an exception to the general experience.
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Watch out: some primer/sealer paints and possibly some floor
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